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"WORLD WIDE PONDS"

"PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS"

How our readers have solved their pond and aquaculture problems. E MAIL TO: pondshop@pondshop.com

POND MAINTENANCE

ALGAE, how to get rid of it.....FOAM in the water.......ODOR, water smells......

POND CONSTRUCTION

LINER ponds, how to do it.....PUMPS, types, advantages, etc......MAKING YOUR PERFECT POND

MEDICAL PROBLEMS

ULCERS, how to avoid, which medicated foood, treatment, etc......PARASITES, avoiding them, killing them, etc........WOUNDS on the fish, treatments,.....MAKE YOURSELF A MEDICINE CHEST, things to keep in it,

PREDATORS

HERONS, OWLS, AND OTHER BIRDS, how to keep them away,.....CATS, DOGS, ETC........RACCOONS.....

MAKE YOUR BACKYARD A WILDLIFE SANTUARY

DUCKS, advantage, disadvantages, one, two, three, or more? SQUIRRELS, any problems? RACCOONS, avoid like the plague! WILD BIRDS,

*PLUGGED POND DRAIN LINES / SPA BLOWER:

My 9,000 gallon pond has two 4" drain lines which supply the pit (leaf trap) which then provides the suction (along with the flow from a large skimmer) to my two KJ6000LH Superfalls pumps. Normally, two grates cover the bottom drains to prevent fish and large items from entering and plugging up the lines. Recently I removed the grates to clean the sides and bottom of my pond. With this design, all I have to do is sweep any trash into the bottom drains and it is swept into the large mesh basket for removal.

This normally works well without any problems, but I forgot and left the grates off the drains. One day recently I noticed a reduced flow returning to the pond. Upon investigation, I discovered that there was no flow from the bottom drains, leaving only the flow from the skimmer for recirculation. Also, there were six large koi in the almost empty basket (4 of which later died due to injuries, stress, etc.).

My problem was how to unplug the 4" lines. This had happened once before and it took a lot of work with the largest snake I could find before I eventually succeeded in removing the plug . This time it turned out to be a large peice of plastic lodged sideways in the pipe which then had collected leaves and twigs. I didn't what to go through that again, so I looked for a better way. It turned out that the solution was in my garage.

I use a Spa air blower to backwash my biological filters and by simply jerry-rigging an adapter to my drain return in the pit, I was able to blow a large volume of air backwards through the pipe which the unplugged it in about 30 seconds. One of these spa blowers puts out an amazing amout of air. It came to me that this would also work with a high flow low pressure pump such as my KJ6000LH Superfalls also. I want to stress that most pond plumbing is designed for low pressure, so I would not use a standard irrigation or swimming pool pump or you might compound your problems.

So now I have another use for my spa blower - backwash my drain pipes. I also replaced my grates with the KJDC-24 drain covers.These are large (24") expanded metal screens with a steel rod which hangs down from the center into the drain pipe. With this arrangement, the fish cant remove it, and yet it is easy for me to remove if necessary for maintenace.

  Annonymous

*KITCHEN TIMERS:

Don't laugh but I now carry a kitchen timer around whenever I go into my backyard! It all started one day when I was cleaning my filters and decided to open the drain on my filters. This flushes out the under-gravel portion of my filters and I usually flush this area out on a weekly basis for about 5 minutes or less.

The telephone rang and I rushed into the house to answer it.

I was working graveyard that night and about 02:30 AM I  jumped out of my chair! The filter bottom drains! I couldn't remember closing them. A call to my brother Bob at this time of the morning wasn't appreciated, but a half hour later he confirmed my fears. My pond had only 8 inches of water left in the deep end and my koi were very upset.

As I said, I now carry a kitchen timer around with me and any time I have done anything with the potential to drain the pond, I set it to go off every 5 minutes or so. Annonymous

*LOW LEVEL CUTOFF SWITCHES:

I remember another time that I mistakenly drained down my pond. Unfortunately, I was in the grocery store when my wife saw me running out the door to my car.

I was backwashing my filters and went into the house to answer the phone. My wife asked if I needed anything from the store. Why yes, I had to have that new gadget that I had heard about.

These low level cut-offs sure do work well. They shut off your pump whenever the level gets too low to prevent itiots like me from killing my fish (who by the way must hate me). Same annonymous

*Date: Thu, 21 Dec 1995 19:30:49 GMT

Subject: My Three Largest Koi Killed By Stupidity- Mine. From: Don Cunningham <donc@holli.com>

Sender: news@iquest.net (News Admin)

If you use a pond heater, do NOT turn it off. WE had a period of 40 degree weather last week. ( Unusual in December ) I turned off the heater and proptly forgot it for 48 hours. When I checked the pond there was an inch of ice on it and my three largest Koi were belly up just under the ice. I would not have thought that would happen so quickly. I was so sick about it, I didn't even sign on to this newsgroup for two days. Any ideas as to what happened?

Date: 21 Dec 1995 21:36:45 -0500

From: aquaenviro@aol.com (AquaEnviro) Subject: Re: My Three Largest Koi Killed By Stupidity- Mine.

Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com

I would guess they simply died from a lack of oxygen. When the ice came. the door shut to atmospheric transfer of oxygen. If the pond is fairly deep you could kept it open with air . Sorry it always hurts whenyou lose a friend. Paul

Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 00:32:37 GMT

From: hhullar5@texas.net (Harold Arnold) Subject: Re: My Three Largest Koi Killed By Stupidity- Mine.

Welcome to the stupitity club! My initiation came last summer when I terminated one of the largest denitizens of my pond by the unusual means of running over it with a tractor. It seems I was pumping water from the well and it had filled and water had begun to run over the spillway. One of my best 10 inch fish apparently was in the shallow water near the spillway when I stormed across on the tractor. I found the squashed victim on my return trip. It does leave one with a sick, hopeless feeling. I can only speculate on what happened in your case. I thought koi were safe in quite cold water. If it was a small pond could the ice have cut off oxygen? Here in South-Central Texas I doubt I'll ever have an ice problem. We had our 100 year record snow storm in 1985 with a 36 hour 15 inch mini-blizard. My large 3/4 acre pond didn't come close to freezing over, only about the edges. The temperature was generally in the mid to high 20's during the period. I suspect my 6,000 gal water garden pond which did not exist then would have come closer to freezing. But I have never seen ice on it in the five years since it was built. Harold

*Date: 30 Dec 1995 19:49:12 -0500

From: rswinkler@aol.com (RSWinkler) Subject: New Pond Killing My Koi friends?......sniff

Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com

Help!! I am an experienced Pond keeper but this year replaced my old 700 gallon pond with a 5000 gallon concrete pond with a liner underneath it...I live in Colorado and the last two months I have noticed a steady decline in the health of my Koi...the pH was high for a while....up to 8.6 but has been 7.4 for the last two weeks as I finally gave up and added Muriatic acid to lower it...in small doses...I started the winter with 12 koi .....from 3 inches to 20 inches in size... but have been reduced to one large one and one 6 incher left... the filter is running with water being drawn from the top pool skimmer and returned at the top also..so it has never frozen completely tho most of the pond is covered with about 4 inches of ice...the dead fish first seem to be "disoriented"...they swim....lethargically at the top under the ice....then get caught in the skimmer after a couple days...I have put a screen to keep them from getting all the way in ...then they start to swim upside down..if they swim much at all...then its over in a day or two after that.....I suppose it could be the "new Pond Syndrome" and the stress of the first winter in there for them..... I want to ask if any have any similar experiences?...the fish look free of diseases when I examine the dead ones...gills and all are ok...no sores visible....just dead...any suggetstions?? the water temp is 37 at the bottom...the pond is 5 feet deep and 24 by 18 feet ....any help would be much appreciated... I hadnt lost any fish in 6 years before this and many were from my first pond...thanx

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 95 08:57:56 PDT

From: sperling@nps.is.net

Subject: Re: New Pond Killing My Koi friends?......sniff

rswinkler@aol.com> writes:

Help!! I am an experienced Pond keeper but this year replaced my old 700 gallon pond with a 5000 gallon concrete pond with a liner underneath it...I live in Colorado and the last two months I have noticed a steady decline in the health of my Koi...the pH was high for a while....up to 8.6 but has been 7.4 for the last two weeks as I finally gave up and added Muriatic acid to lower it...in small doses...I started the winter with 12 koi .....from 3 inches to 20 inches in size... but have been reduced to one lage one and one 6 incher left... the filter is running with water being drawn from the top pool skimmer and returned at the top also..so it has never frozen completely tho most of the pond is covered with about 4 inches of ice...the dead fish first seem to be "disoriented"...they swim....lethargically at the top under the ice....then get caught in the skimmer after a couple days...I have put a screen to keep them from getting all the way in ...then they start to swim upside down..if they swim much at all...then its over in a day or two after that.....I suppose it could be the "new Pond Syndrome" and the stress of the first winter in there for them..... I want to ask if any have any similar experiences?...the fish look free of diseases when I examine the dead ones...gills and all are ok...no sores visible....just dead...any suggestions?? the water temp is 37 at the bottom...the pond is 5 feet deep and 24 by 18 feet ....any help would be much appreciated... I hadnt lost any fish in 6 years before this and many were from my first pond... thanx

While other problems may be operating, this spring coat the concrete with CIM liquid liner.

EDITOR'S NOTE: CIM is available by the gallon container from the POND SHOP. item CIM-1

*ALGAE PROBLEMS:

Subject: New Pond's Water is Pea Soupy Green color with String Algae - What can I do? Darryl

There are many types and several colors of algae. Some are more of a problem than others. First of all, most algae doesn't hurt the pond or the fish. They are however a headache for those who want to see and enjoy their fish.

To discuss your options about the algae, we have to firs divide the algae into types according to where and how it grows.

String Algae

In the case of all algae, you should look at your feeding habit, cleaning methods, etc. Remove all uneaten organic material, food, rotting leaves, dead plants, etc. These materials help to feed the algae and removal will ease your algae problem. Quite often, people are simply over feeding their fish and what goes in, ultimately winds up in the pond either eaten or uneaten. Many people think that as long as the fish eat, you should feed them and they will grow very large. A healthy fish does not have to be fat.

String algae is normally the most difficult to get rid of. This is because it is the hardiest and most difficult to kill, and it attaches itself to everything in the pond which means it cant be pumped through a UV Sterilizer. You can attempt to reduce it by several methods.

1. Physical Removal: Scrub with brushes, at the point of attachment and remove the strings with rakes. If you have a concrete pond, use brushes with metal bristles or if rubber liner, use a brush with softer plastic bristles.

2. If you do not have plants in your pond, use algaecides such as algae-away to kill the algae. Remove plants for 2-3 days and sprinkle the algaecide evenly around the pond. Remove any algae from the plants prior to returning them to the pond. Keep the plants wet while out of the pond.

3. If you don't have plants in the pond, you can try the use of salt in your pond. Usually, 1 1/2 lbs of salt for each 100 gallons of water will retard algae growth, help heal injuries or sores and protect them against parasites.

4. Tint your ponds water slightly to reduce the amount of sun light which is causing the algae to grow. Use Tint-it-Blue or similar product. A little goes a long way and you don't want it so dark that you cant see your fish.

5. Add concentrated bacteria to the pond to improve performance of your bio-filter and to decrease the amount of nutrients in the pond which are feeding the algae. Shut off your UV Sterilizer for a couple of days after adding the bacteria to the pond or it will kill the bacteria before it has a chance to take hold in the filter.

Suspended Algae and Settled Algae

1. Settled algae is best removed by vacuuming it up with a pump or vacuum, or sweeping it into a drain where it can be removed by pump or drainage..

2. Suspended algae can be effectively killed with UV Sterilizers and then removed by your bio-filter. UV Sterilizers are the most certain method of removing suspended or pea-soupy green algae. They can kill anything that can be pumped through them, even parasites if the flow rate is reduced to the right gpm rate. Consult your manual.

3. If you do not have plants in your pond, use algaecides such as algae-away to kill the algae. Remove plants for 2-3 days and sprinkle the algaecide evenly around the pond. Remove any algae from the plants prior to returning them to the pond. Keep the plants wet while out of the pond.

4. If you don't have plants in the pond, you can try the use of salt in your pond. Usually, 1 1/2 lbs of salt for each 100 gallons of water will retard algae growth, help heal injuries or sores and protect them against parasites.

5. Tint your ponds water slightly to reduce the amount of sun light which is causing the algae to grow. Use Tint-it-Blue or similar product. A little goes a long way and you don't want it so dark that you cant see your fish.

6. Add concentrated bacteria to the pond to improve performance of your bio-filter and to decrease the amount of nutrients in the pond which are feeding the algae. Shut off your UV Sterilizer for a couple of days after adding the bacteria to the pond or it will kill the bacteria before it has a chance to take hold in the filter.

NOTE: Please send the POND SHOP your favorite (or least favorite) horror stories. We do not print readers names unless specifically requested to. This is because some people have need of privacy as it relates to protection of their valued fish. (We have seen a new predator lately that arrives on two legs and can completely empty a pond in less than 1/2 hour).
This might be a good horror story which we will tell soon. Suffice it to say- Don't advertise the value and quality of your Koi! PONDSHOP

*OTHER MAGAZINE SECTIONS

World Wide Ponds/Your Pond:  Articles about ponds around the world. Readers submitted articles, suggestions, etc.

Best Pond Products, New & Old: We submit those products that we thought were worthy of space in our magazine. In some cases we link them to other home pages or sources. If you know of a wonder product that should be here, let us know.

Web Sites to Check Out: This won't include them all and until you tell us of them, it may not even include the best. Check out our list and compare it with your's. In most cases we include a link to the site.

Feedback, From You: This section will include comments, suggestions, and answers to questions, etc. Send in that E Mail!

Who, What, When, Where, etc: This is the place to look for dates and places for pond shows, Koi meets, annual affairs, etc.

Cover Page:  About this issue, etc: 


 

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